After a massive swell hit Oahu on Monday the 11th , I decided to chase it down to California.
I got caught inside by a big set that cleaned up most of us in the lineup. There were so many of us caught on the inside by that wave that I found myself caught up in somebody elses leash and it dragged me underwater for a 2 wave hold down. (That was first time that has ever happened to me). I only survived because I was able used my quick release to detach the boards that were holding me down underwater. For the first time in my surfing career, I felt like i could have died.
I came up and made it out okay to the beach! Jairo, a good friend, got hurt out there and gave me his leash. I made myself go back out and surf one more wave to get over my fears. I was shaking badly!