This session down the coast last week was really fun. The banks at Snapper have been pretty much wiped out so I’ve been surfing a lot down the coast in the past couple of weeks. This is just a little backbeach down the coast that we surf a lot in summer. There were some really good four-foot waves with these perfect little faces and pockets. I’m slowly starting to feel my surfing free up. I’m still a little sketchy out of the lip, but it feels good just carving around and going rail to rail and doing some big safety turns. I’ve got a bit of a stiff-legged old man bottom turn, but I’m feeling my surfing freeing up. I reckon some waves I feel like I’m surfing at 70 per cent, but other waves I feel like 20. Most of the time I’m at 50 per cent, I reckon. There’s just one little small piece of scar tissue that causes the pain, that’s all it is. I’ve been surfing a lot in the past three weeks; I’ve had probably a dozen surfs in the past three weeks and each one gets better and better.

The foot is going well. The cut itself has healed up nicely, but the worst thing is my leg and my foot are still pretty weak from having no weight on it for so long. You’ve got to remember I’ve been sitting around on it for two months doing not much, so I just need to get moving again to get the strength back in it. The specialists and the physios are all really happy with where the injury is at. They’re saying all along that it’s a serious injury and I’ve got to take it slowly, but their recovery timetable so far has been spot-on, so that’s really reassuring.

I’ve just finished a full training session with Wes today. Last week I got the flu pretty bad so I didn’t train all week, and with Mahli being born the week before I haven’t been training much in the past 10 days, but Wes has told me he’s going to work me pretty hard in the next fortnight. All my rehab for the foot is pretty much done which is great, it’s more so now the fitness side of it. Less rehab more training, which is good, because I can fully control my training and I feel comfortable getting my fitness levels up. I can really feel my body coming back to life at the moment which I’m stoked about.

I was even toying with the idea of surfing the Search event in Peurto Rico. I was thinking if I could get through a heat or two it would be a positive step, but it’s a long way to go for just a heat or two, so there was no real point. When I go to an event I want to think I can win it, not having a goal of getting through a heat or two. And I didn’t want to have to call Tommy Whitaker and tell him I wanted my spot back. That’s been one of the only upsides of the injury – the fact that Tommy got my spot and has been making heats. I’m stoked for him.

So the plan is still to come back for the Triple Crown in Hawaii. I get into Hawaii in early November and I’m so psyched on the idea of being there. Just having the waves right there in front of the house, being able to surf three, four times a day. That’s what my surfing really needs at the moment is just hours in the water, and nowhere is better for hours in the water than the North Shore. I’ll be surfing Haleiwa – that will be my first event back – and I just really want to get back into the contest groove, hopefully make it through a few heats, and try and get my surfing back to 100 per cent for Pipe.



Rediscovering mojo. //Photo Swilly