What Shane Dorian thinks about big wave surfing
Stab Mag has posted a series of interviews that snapshots big wave surfing " What (insert name) Thinks About Big Wave Surfing". Below is an interview of one of Billabong's favourite waves charger Shane Dorian.
With the growing pop of #paddlevibes at places like Jaws, and quad-stack burgers being whipped (and nearly claiming lives) in Portugal, it sure feels like the world is particularly wild for big wave surfing right now. But it’s hardly a trend, and especially not for men like Shane Dorian, Hawaiian ex-world tour surfer turned renaissance man. Doz has done what few others have with such panache: He’s made his game more captivating as he’s gotten older. Ask any big wave surfer who their top three paddlers are and Shane’ll land in, or at the top of, that list every time. For such a powerful presence in the field of avalanches, Shane is wildly understated. However, if he’s gonna light up on anything, it’s towing big waves and, more particularly, the future, the etiquette and the status quo thereof. So, guess what Stab discussed with Mr Dorian?
Stab: Do you still have the urge to tow?
Shane: No, I have no urge at all to tow. There’s zero urge. I’ll f’sure jump on a rope if I’m at Chopes but I don’t look forward to it. I don’t go, “I can’t wait for the next tow swell at Chopes.” I used to, because it’s such a great wave, it’s the best tow wave in the world. But it’s just too crazy. I get anxiety. Teahupoo is a mess, man. I love it, I love the place, I love the people, but there’s so many crowds out there that I don’t even enjoy myself on those big days anymore. The last time I was there I just basically watched it. It was true carnage, a shit fight of jetskis. And every single person wants the big wave, there’s no men separated from the boys when you have jetskis.
Watch the full interview here