Interview with David Scard
CS: You're a married man with kids and a full time job, and don't look like a hellman who upstages full time pros in the heaviest swell of the year.
DS: I'm pretty under the radar, I like it that way - nobody treats you any differently. It's great even with all this exposure that nobody still knows what I look like!
CS: You're not unfamiliar with heavy left barrels. You worked as a surf guide at G-Land?
DS: I have put in many days in G-Land. It's my second home. I have G-Land, the Sunyoto family and the staff to thank for 12 years of unlimited access the best goofy footers' fun park in the world.
CS: Had you ever surfed Cloudbreak before this session?
DS: No, but I had been wanting to for as long as I can remember. Until recently I thought it was never going to happen. That changed all very suddenly.
CS: What were you expecting when the trip was being pulled together?
DS: I was hoping my prediction of 10-15ft waves was correct. I wasn't really expecting 15-20.
CS: So when the boat pulled up and you saw how big it was, what were you thinking?
DS: Wow this is a dream come true, until I saw a 20ft set I started thinking, "Are we going to be able to dodge those and get into the 15 footers?"
CS: Did you know that wave was going to be a barrel when you paddled into it?
DS: I was hoping so, it wasn't until I got close to the bottom that I realised it had soooo much wall on it. And that wall was going to heave its guts out...
CS: Once you were into it you had little option other than to drive through the barrel, did you think it was going to be a quick in and out or did you think it was going to be a either the wave of your life or the end of your life?
DS: Yeah, there was a fair bit to negotiate and I had to pump my 7'2" like crazy. Then I was planted next to the foam ball for a while. It wasn't until it was all over I sat and went, WTF just happened?
CS: Did you go straight in after that?
DS: I did, I thought about going back out but it wasn't long and then the wind came up.
CS: Did anything come close to that wave on the trip?
DS: I'm not sure anything I paddle into will come close. I would like to surf Cloudbreak like that again for sure but I'm not sure when that will happen?
CS: How did that wave rate on a scale of the best wave you've ever had?
DS: For sure all things considered the best wave of my life. It plays over and over like a song in my head.
CS: Does your family relate to the footage of that wave in the same way we all do?
DS: Yeah my wife understands very well what I did/do and the dangers. I guess as you get older you're much more calculated in what you do. When I was younger I used to break boards all the time, get hurt, do stupid stuff. Now I ride the same waves but do it smarter. Something I have learnt from all the older crew in G-Land is patience.
CS: Any plans to come to South Africa, maybe pull into a few pits at Dungeons?
DS: I love SA, I would love to come and surf Cave Rock again - that place is insane! Hi to all my mates over there, you know who you are.