• Occ-Cast Episode 6 featuring Rabbit Bartholomew

In episode 6 of the Occ-Cast, Occy sits down with fellow World Champion Rabbit Bartholomew to talk winning the World Title, Brazilian world champions and the day in 1974 that an entire contest got washed away.

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Full audio transcript -

0:02ok guys welcome back to the outcasts I

0:14am so privileged inside stock to have a

0:17really good friend of mine and 1978 will

0:19change in wine rabbit Bartholomew thank

0:22you wrap and really coming to join the

0:24outcast it's effectively fresh off the

0:26plane from them in tallies yeah i got

0:28fresh off the plane from the telus

0:30Collins yes

0:31where you been your letter 20 little

0:34resort there and surfin with all the

0:37guys that you know ash and some innocent

0:40so I man Luke again mark philippoussis

0:44and my son jaga Maria Anna you must love

0:47the eem back up there for a while now

0:49last summer going was with the mag crew

0:52you know going with their DNA morrison

0:55and he bio and can be evident and what

0:57happens is that I was a teacher

0:59well I look at this lab you know and but

1:02it's the land of the right up there in

1:03the tail or so it is it was good for me

1:05to pick and always like oh that that is

1:09going to be coming out on Fox Sports

1:10some in a couple months

1:12yeah I've done that trip I know I'm last

1:14year with my guests in here and compete

1:16marrying the crew way I'm say you you

1:18went up there and I would just missed

1:20him that trip I told you i know i saw

1:22you the day before you went there and

1:23I'm like I was supposed to go to

1:24Portugal but i'm not going i could go on

1:26the trip but it's too late and I told

1:28Adam you did from Fox and he was so bomb

1:31and it would have been so good wjd yeah

1:34you know I just said that there are

1:35things going on your busy going maybe

1:37next year

1:38let's do it mixed yeah so how was JK

1:40surfing out there

1:41yes goody the are now I see why she

1:44likes barrels and then be a wife so I

1:46was brought up his alley

1:48you gotta be sunburned the first day and

1:50boys gonna learn the hard way does is so

1:54that he was he was after a couple guys

1:57actually got really fried to try to get

1:59your to fraud and we're going to put him

2:01out yet again stay in a red car red card

2:04reading about that now you stay at the

2:06resort he gonna like it's such a good


2:09it is asking voices no we don't we have

2:11one light i was just kind of not hanging

2:13out there but do you think you later so

2:16when he when he came through already

2:17really good as it as a trip

2:20progressively got it definitely felt

2:21more comfortable and status of him yet

2:23good i think the footage we pretty good

2:25yeah I can't wait to say so I'm we go

2:28back a long way rabbi met you probably

2:31are you could tell me more men when did

2:34you first met me when I was living in

2:36criminality came down and I remember it

2:38was like a white rx7 and you're on top

2:41of the world it's probably it wasn't 78

2:44but I'm was 83 registration always

2:47always ranked number one he was leading

2:49the world to you know trying to fend off

2:51Tommy Carol and in you guys

2:54haha yeah and it was yeah which I'm not

2:57so he's surfing in the videography is

3:00before that and but we got to know each

3:02other and it was that in the driveway

3:04and our drive to Cornell stay with you

3:06and you feel we didn't your mom and mrs.

3:08Cornell you did yeah Barry paris-roubaix

3:11repairs and was just doesn't really know

3:13you guys were coming in and it was it

3:15was just really my darling that next

3:17year i think what happened was that

3:19always do I i begin the years number two

3:21and you begin as 15 and I think the NAU

3:24a number two and all the your trip dates

3:27i'll never forget our main light you

3:31know is yeah I had you in my house

3:33yeah kurnell which is a little kind of

3:37town next week for another in sydney and

3:39you say to my house and then we are up

3:42to in the car and drive LOL doesn't

3:44really listen to David Bowie you and I

3:47can't exactly tell you guys what we're

3:50doing in the car now we don't find I was

3:52like 15

3:53uh-huh uh-huh without your fault if it's

3:56let's hurt you but it was like such a

3:58memorable trip for me

4:00yeah I think we both kind of got knocked

4:04out early in that kind of student yeah

4:06ID three-year with remember didn't care

4:08for the world would get there was a gap

4:10and we'll need to check our challenge

4:11get out from together from media media

4:14yeah and in that year that are strangely

4:17didn't care so weird comment

4:18on it was that Keynes area where I was

4:21swapping from ya is really our IPS dies

4:24he wasn't no ground Cassidy's running

4:26but what I did they change it so that

4:28tour started media and finished it i

4:30think the cult classic in manlius NY

4:32finishing a while yeah it was only just

4:34warning ya didn't work it didn't work

4:37but I mean it might be destroying like

4:39sort of a bit more fun way because it

4:41didn't count the world total and it was

4:43kind of a an opportunity that I mean

4:45that's kind of how it all happened

4:46really in and we are not a really great

4:49road trip and he did you know that was

4:51back in the day where you kind of got

4:53your drug the bills one who would have

4:56to me I went through in the Army my

4:58drive to build me and be like you know

5:00be i'll be steep for a week or if that

5:02wasn't a big motor on a Yankee stuff

5:06like every other now I'll take three

5:08months if that's what can you tell us a

5:12little bit about your world total year

5:14and I'm which eventually wine and here

5:17when did you click ship

5:18yeah well I will you know there will be

5:20before really you know that that first

5:23year 77 within the tool really kicked

5:26off you know with the studies class ii

5:28was the birth of process serving was a

5:29the real deal man on me and surfing and

5:32you know we were kind of you know living

5:34the dream you know like it was it was

5:36gonna happen anytime we fought really

5:38hard for it to happen and and so that he

5:40was really exciting and Shawn Thompson

5:42won the world titles runner-up to him we

5:44had a good total battle all the way the

5:46end of the wire

5:47yeah and the next year you know saturday

5:49or not you know one of the studies and

5:50the bed early and certainly had you know

5:53number one in the world and and a little

5:56wider second pills and you never

5:58religious relink when I don't know I

6:00started 21 the first event and went

6:03wire-to-wire yeah I ended up you know

6:05you know a 1 in new jersey and in south

6:08africa and you know I was having the way

6:11from New Jersey are pretty small pretty

6:13small i remember they had comments in

6:16new jersey and florida it was led to you

6:19on the phone yes I did

6:21Wow but even still a lot of years here

6:23with these cases was you know I wasn't

6:25going to really have your small wife

6:26serving dinner

6:28yeah and had that down yeah well I had

6:31the right borsalino you know we're not

6:32stick never got a lot of credit for it

6:35but all the only one who really writes

6:36question everyone wants course child


6:38yeah all right i want with a ride with a

6:40lot of running like different boards

6:41like swallowtails and mentality i don't

6:44have what our but I was the only one

6:45with a property like rim and scores

6:47thailand what is honor and you know I

6:50could you know glove was very shaken

6:51boards and and we would really work on a

6:54little flat little bored for they're

6:55really small wise and not have obtained

6:57espresso coffee before you got a really

6:59good going you know and I and then I

7:03ended up clinching at the point masses

7:04and depart he was in this yours on this

7:08day where I got a perfect TenPoint right

7:11wow yeah Dora part part that was now

7:13back to worry about like the point

7:16masses in those days just be run like

7:19that white for that is dead one day of

7:21the in the whole city would overlap all

7:23the other of a sort of thing and they

7:24set 14 and I pipeline and then run the

7:27point masses and we might have all ivory

7:29couple of guys and so it was always part

7:32there's never wrote back to like a tease

7:34me it was always too big for the way so

7:35that always went 4-12 guy get yeah and

7:37this you know it was really cool and

7:39then I got a perfect input ride and then

7:42in there I got through my semi-final and

7:44then and then my opponents that they're

7:47there were going to the world on Shawn

7:49Thompson Michael how didn't get through

7:51and sort of like I clinch the World

7:53title in there was there was an event

7:55after the world cup so it was already

7:57done invested in oh wow yeah it's a

8:00pretty pretty comprehensive year and it

8:02may not always felt that 17 on was

8:04really a year that i could I i'm going

8:06to me a leg injury early in the

8:08here I mean you could about went back to

8:09that oh I definitely think I even though

8:12they always little bit in my own shiner

8:14in that year

8:14yeah what happened to me was it I you

8:16know this back in the day where everyone

8:18counted and our need to drop any you

8:21couldn't drop any events in I i was

8:24going really well and I use it myself

8:25but in the evening coat color survey out

8:28in the round of 16 and had to pull out

8:31of the event and then I and then I miss

8:33the next two events in japan so it's

8:35basically three of enzyme used in

8:38basically you know and then I for all

8:40the way back to number one she's you

8:43know what a few events in south africa

8:45in florida i want in Japan they had at

8:50another event in japan and i got myself

8:52all the way back there and then run at

8:53en mi one but if I work that if i didn't

8:56really add three more of insulin to it I

8:58think of one before the last of him

9:01yeah just when I think I mean lots of

9:03people got stories we had nearly winning

9:04will darling I've got a couple now you

9:06do you say yes I think that's exactly

9:08right out

9:09you know i'm not getting second twice

9:11and in the in the in the title right so

9:13i can add individual later Tommy Carol

9:15yet at the end of boy sort of my run

9:18yeah but so I mean I always like just

9:21been in that top 44 either been a

9:23contender and you know being part of you

9:25know that we'll talk arise it was always

9:29exciting and I was mr. it's it's fun

9:32being contained there and it just makes

9:35the two of us that much more exciting

9:37yeah and down let's just talk about that

9:40a little bit i may not know if you wanna

9:42involve I just turned 50 and I'd like to

9:44know our deal because you still ripping

9:46yeah I've been watching you sir for a

9:47year and you've really fit yeah I don't

9:50get we will but if you think that's not

9:52fair yeah and you've been ripping how

9:54old I am

9:54yeah that's right no no he's not


9:59no don't have to answer that question I

10:01am 61

10:02yeah and still riveting 61 three

10:05quarters but a three qualities

10:08yeah but you know what I I ideal of a

10:11surfing like you know it's just funny to

10:13me Carole selfies ago and I said I told

10:16me you know still in tennis ball and is

10:18it not even easier to just buy non bound

10:20he said its are giving everything you

10:22know it's just surfing yourself and your

10:24name again well you know what I think

10:26that's ago so it's now with you know

10:28what training is all about just surfing

10:30yea and all that is it for you knowing

10:32that I don't tell us know that terrorism

10:34is like and even go know now I'm this is

10:37all about my surfing yeah i just wanna

10:39surf at a respectable level for me and

10:43be able to get barrels and wear it so

10:46anything I know you got a new girlfriend

10:48canola girl you really happy you've got

10:50Jagger and clear out here with you now

10:52and do the best down it i'm from urban

10:56what pbc yeah it's really good i mean

11:01yea though I worship writer for a wall

11:03and it's so good to have the the night

11:06jaguars yeah but that previously doing

11:08the sports section program which I yeah

11:10you know kids in the same division is

11:12jai alai surf all the time together and

11:14you know it it's really an exciting time

11:17in their lives you know watching them

11:18developments you know it's there to neo

11:21and you know I and that's been part of

11:23motivation just be able to the level

11:26where i consider for them

11:27yeah no not not be you know I'm not be

11:29yet yeah they're going over the

11:32handlebars in front of which i can do it

11:35would which always doing I mean yeah you

11:37guys going to keep you got to keep it

11:39like Connor superfeet for so we kind of

11:41did yeah i mean like when I put on my

11:43wife another thing I remember I had like

11:45a good friend of ours Robbie counter and

11:47it was it down the surf club having a

11:49couple of years watching me try and

11:51stand up that snap a pic it you know

11:52when it's really sat next to the rock

11:54and I was like don't have the full time

11:55you thought it was hilarious so I was


11:58yeah i know i don't like another feel

12:00annoyed but it can happen like that

12:02thing you gotta watch when you get it

12:04always is back-to-back injuries

12:06yeah you know I did a rib injury than an

12:08ankle injury in the same thing happened

12:09a million

12:10and always had struggling on going over

12:12the falls and I just doing god is not

12:14fun and you lose confidence you know and

12:16then you sort of get well i'm not gonna

12:17yeah I'm not gonna sit on the balcony

12:19that's the funny thing is everyone gives

12:23you the way

12:24yeah everyone pulls back just gonna kind

12:27of rabbits well that's a show and you

12:29just go over the falls yes i think yeah

12:31and then you put yourself to the back of

12:33the lord if it you know there's some

12:36secrets what the other place with an

12:37hour to yeah we are talking about

12:39snapper in the super bank with his

12:41understand hundreds of guys their

12:42rabbits probably the high rocky I'm

12:45everyone gives read the way first I

12:47guess um maybe Bruce Lee second

12:50yeah well I mean to say that having said

12:52that you know you gotta feeling

12:54put your time if you don't if you're not

12:56like indesign I want to give them to you

12:59yeah you know that is that is I always

13:02call it a lot of the plains of the

13:03Serengeti then the outline if you're not

13:06feeling I get Ricky to put all the

13:07hyenas are waiting on the side and

13:09always make it right now look I do when

13:12he's on a you know big day i do right

13:14along the border when that is my little

13:16deal out soon

13:17yeah you're complete again sighs you

13:19know 20 year olds and yeah

13:20wow you know you got to be on but yeah

13:22and I figure from animate furthermore

13:24Turner and I got a hit on then

13:26then I'll give me the white yeah you

13:28nobody form uniform sort of that they're

13:31missing wise or anything like that you

13:32just now I'll just run over top here

13:34yeahhh mister and down we'll get back to

13:37Hawaii little bit because we had some

13:39good stories there but what I remember

13:42the big year there was too big is that

13:46we can page that party line and that was

13:48when it was a special invitee contest

13:50and not just 24 hours i don't know why

13:52they invited me but I like i was staying

13:55with Betty McRae or the one on the board

13:58out the shapes the black surfboards that

14:01lived on the west peek at sunset yeah

14:03Randy where it was running the event one

14:05morning we woke up and we were hanging

14:08out together we're living together we

14:09are living together actually now the

14:11back in the back yeah and I'm remember

14:14that morning or you lose your bag you

14:16came back in from looking at something

14:18with this now while I could run the

14:19nothing i walk out there when it's a

14:21message with well when that will be on I

14:23know these are the days i wait for you

14:26know that they did they're trying to

14:27kill us on my life so please buy it will

14:30be on i know and i don't want to leave

14:32it was in the first you're in the first

14:34hand and I'm looking out and its third

14:36refill is so be going to be serious and

14:39we went down there and got out there and

14:42I'm like it was perfect like it was

14:44perfectly there's a lot of washers are

14:45you know this year and will find a

14:46different game was always on that was

14:49wrong the second reef and that you were

14:50in on the back and in the Goofy's you

14:52can I had it going to do the internet

14:54internet and going to get those once it

14:55hit the inside edge and try to door to

14:58the big ones rolling through and there

15:00was I mean that was a classic me running

15:02birds in there for me when I was all

15:04time and we know that was at that

15:06because we had two finals was it the one

15:08that I wonder down

15:09yeah you guys all you guys SMH other

15:11went all the way at second after a

15:13passed second reading got cleaned out

15:15that's why a huge set yeah well they all

15:17followed me i'm in God's gonna help me

15:19out there anyway entertainment on

15:21Michael how and I mean Michael speak but

15:23I mean this day that were like kind of

15:25went with me and Ronnie burns and

15:27Michael how I went out and got clean up

15:29boy a 20-foot sit there will be a ten

15:32wives and sit and we just got we got

15:34annihilated but you know it was it was

15:37it was still a great i mean i actually

15:40in the semi-final eight-year i did get

15:42my bits wide probably ever of my life

15:45you did yeah and it was way out the bag

15:48it was the most unbelievable why were so

15:50far away and that this well was still

15:53coming sideways you know haven't even

15:54wrapped in and I picked this wave up and

15:57I basically took always only a couple

15:59hundred meters this sort of rock piles

16:01one of his wife and I i took the drop

16:04and from outside rock piles 2222 the

16:08pipe one water from the pipe ass I was

16:10dropping dropping dropping dropping and

16:12I finally did my bottom turn and went

16:14nowhere and i went to Switzerland too

16:16early you know that what I'm going to

16:19download automatically oh my god it's

16:21still drawing and I had to do a little

16:22like Jean there and take a little free

16:25for and into the bottom turn again I

16:27just student is

16:28big white one monster and in not spend

16:31one the same Ian and I just remember i

16:34just wasted that what I think it was my

16:35best buy the hell yeah it was just it

16:37was idling foot part

16:38oh yeah it was just such a good guy and

16:40you want that in that fallen oh yeah it

16:43was a classy and how many you you're

16:45always ducking in and trying to get a

16:47date barrel because it wasn't many yeah

16:49we're mother got like a little cover

16:51here and there but I'm a special special

16:54time was it was looking at a few years

16:57ago mean you know I mean max medearis

16:59and I were the three of us that were in

17:00both finals both user I know and it was

17:03just all time applied as far as nollie

17:06first she was twelve fifteen year and

17:09the second year we shall be grand your

17:10granddaughter running again but he was

17:12riding like the right foot was on the

17:15inside getting serengeti barrel and and

17:17then then the next year was more the

17:20other way

17:2012 to 18 for ya now classically is what

17:24I mean they say there's nothing yet you

17:25can't compare him to me because you know

17:27it's like the backdoor masters are now

17:29anyone explain that but the guys on tour

17:32now that yeah we had like a two-week

17:35waiting period and we would wait for

17:36their season always right now he's done

17:39day but it's like oh I mean I was a lot

17:41of waiting period am on TV all the

17:43long-running period they're just white

17:45and white away you see perfect guys

17:47again you see perfect guys with 60 you

17:50know Mary's like the hygiene so to know

17:52change isn't always a split roller

17:54android doubling up

17:56are you the boys are on know like these

17:59days they'd probably call it off they do

18:01call it off

18:01they would call it off they they they

18:04call that's and that's a good topic that

18:06we are might bring up is I'm you know

18:08that you're in Fiji yeah you know when

18:11they call that also bomb and yeah it's a

18:14bummer because I mean you know in this

18:15day and age really i mean you know you

18:17can tell a weekly early everyone's

18:19buzzing about this world we clean all is

18:21going as well as those special Sultan up

18:23with the right foot board ready to serve

18:25big big outside a club right now and you

18:29know and they would you know anyway guys

18:30would have gone in and I want to surf

18:32well and you know it was just one of

18:35those things that are when i saw it

18:36happen arias was really bomb i was


18:39oh yeah because yeah I mean it was ago I

18:42am mad what was his name the guy that

18:44was I'm not blaming anyone you know in

18:47the comments directed did call it off

18:48here it was on the surface fault at all

18:50I know it was you know they served a

18:52win-win got a bit weird and not ten feet

18:55tall figure with your ribs in a duly

18:57there's a few ribs early call that you

18:59should call it off early and then it

19:00just went with your car and I just what

19:03happened was it then it became like will

19:04when the you know I didn't like what I

19:06didn't like was it you know there was

19:09suddenly like well the you know is

19:12supposedly the best serves in the world

19:14which they are

19:15yeah they call it off then the real

19:16surface come in like I mean I didn't

19:19know it wasn't a good look

19:20hey I ever see two guys like would

19:22challenge anyone advise you again yeah

19:25they're all the goods and harmless one

19:27in there John was out there are many and

19:30the rest just would have had to do that

19:31they had to deal with this time but why

19:33did back then we all have to deal with

19:35it I mean if it 20-foot waves or 15-foot

19:38wave perfect waves coming at ya and

19:39you're in a it's a moment of truth

19:41you gotta go ya know every night and

19:43like that we saw matt wilson doing a

19:45show when they will do it will make your

19:47clothes I have to I mean you know i'm

19:49gonna sit there with all the other thing

19:51was that we know it was always really

19:53liked you wanna be a pro surfer you

19:55gotta be ready 24 to 20 yeah 20 minutes

19:58then we do 430 I don't know where it is

20:01and i want to thank God that John John

20:02Florence all year

20:03um who like who do you think really at

20:06this point of the year and after naming

20:09him is there anyone better than him

20:11right now John may not know there's some

20:13Brazilians are real close here but at

20:15this point I'm pretty well I don't look

20:18like when is your winner with friends

20:20yesterday you know I thought wow that's

20:22it's looking like Jones conditions you

20:24know he really rebels and I thought he

20:26was sustained yesterday and he was

20:27behind very much behind but on daru

20:30heading right at somebody and gender is

20:32really good but John's he came back it

20:34just looks so good in those conditions i

20:36mean i always think if you friend stays

20:38not you know solid he's looking really

20:40good and I mean these last Ravens is in

20:43I'd say you know it's easy in the Box

20:45lid on so yeah I'm in medina is

20:47dangerous you know in all conditions

20:50make sure Austin many Wilkinson still

20:52there may not know i'd like to see you

20:54have a flowery was not good i love to

20:56see you know I have a flurry and being

20:57there when I just being contention of

20:59poverty greatest city and enjoy you know

21:02I think Jody is that guy who is looking

21:06to kind of you know have that year where

21:09he he can have a got the world title

21:11yeah you know man maybe you know what I

21:14don't know maybe pop it hasn't been a

21:15strong point so far but you know he

21:18could certainly do good in these next

21:19two events and then put himself right

21:21there so i would think they're the four

21:23yet but I think John's you know you know

21:26he'd be the yeah I think I think he's a

21:29bit of in the world yeah you know and

21:31the Brazilians did you ever think that

21:33would get that strong

21:34well I mean no I mean we had I mean you

21:37can tell the guys that you know when

21:39you're on tour there's a couple my weave

21:41it now there's here and when I was on

21:43tour there was only a couple but now

21:45there's maybe nothing i'm doing well you

21:48know it's really funny because in indy

21:502000 when I went to Rio and I was doing

21:54a press conference and and they said

21:55Robert you know we when will we have a

21:58Brazilian will genia now really feel

22:00like they're asking you know it's gonna

22:01well gonna be never really going to get

22:03and I remember the sort of guy will be

22:05your best teams from Walt all ordinaries

22:07Nico patterns and then are not i mean

22:09yeah nick is really good but also come

22:11on give it you know where winds and I

22:13went ik this is what I really felt I

22:15said one day a young boy will come down

22:18there from the favelas your four and

22:20half a surfboard on the beach you'll

22:22have that he'll have the natural ability

22:23of pla the soccer legend you got your

22:25start surfin and he'll be your will TV

22:28and then its corner gonna happen it was

22:30i generally that's right and when he

22:32told his story of the wsl was not last

22:35year when that seem it seemed a and then

22:38you know and then you know it's gonna be

22:40so many more are always only you know

22:41fully Toledo's still yet to really put a

22:44whole campaign together that guy's

22:45incredible you know I mean you know it

22:48would be those kids coming through the

22:49ones you don't even know where they're

22:51just hearing you go here my god like

22:53I'll just watch your back us 10,000

22:55there's another one yeah why not

22:57the one you serious yeah they're right

22:59well there's so many you know so yeah

23:03inhales I'm these Jagger wanting to do

23:07that I'm know jay is here now Jenkins

23:08got aspirations for getting on his part

23:10i mean you know interesting yourself I

23:12mean like I mean like a tomboy side

23:14fully together i did and i'm good i will

23:16go and in the other camera that point

23:19where they have that it's their decision

23:21yeah I now I left 12 my boys and yeah

23:24and it's their decision and in the idea

23:26that it's surfing is this for the choice

23:29and they have a spreadsheet you know and

23:31you know you know you've got to be very

23:33so good these guys is so many good ones

23:36na knows that and he knows everything

23:37and that's a reality

23:39yeah and so it sits on top of that it's

23:42up to them you know and in the main

23:44where there and in and I mean sometimes

23:46people get all they got such an

23:47advantage with you guys here but in some

23:49respects you know yeah you know it is

23:52really hard for them behind know what

23:54you know about another night and they're

23:57going to count calories at their own

23:58thing you know in on one big on that and

24:01I know you are yeah because in the

24:04United I you know they're out there now

24:06told me hear the end of it in like ice

24:09age I developing into incredible young

24:11surfer and in in my boys and I don't

24:14know I just think it's it's just really

24:15exciting although I cited them if you're

24:18really loved surfing that's enough

24:20yeah because that you can serve for your

24:22life and and then if they really want to

24:25pursue a career then you know we're

24:28there to help

24:28yeah exactly when you can love survive

24:31in serving so far and like you know you

24:33watched you know like the interviews on

24:36the on the mct and they're like just go

24:39out there and have fun but a lot of

24:41times if you're not winning it's not fun

24:42now will you know that is serving it's

24:45not fun

24:46and then there's a thing they got to get

24:47used to you do lose more than you win

24:50yeah but you want to see it in

24:51progression you know in

24:52in that progressive like so that you are

24:54always progressing some part of it and

24:56and there's so much you can do outside

24:58the surf to help yourself yeah so

25:01there's a lot of really good tools and

25:03they are available and a lot of good

25:05mentors you know just on that trip we

25:07went on I mean just going for jagged you

25:09know you know Luke and tell me a little

25:11bit and please you saw me and said

25:12little bit United like I mean ashes you

25:15know such a great going my killer person

25:17is really took Jagger underneath me and

25:19that's sort of a beautiful thing that

25:21happens the surfing I think you know

25:22that is the beautiful community it's a

25:24global community and they can get that

25:26network of friends around the world and

25:28mentors and people in nurture them and

25:30and the in the in the industry as little

25:33on lessons and I just think it's it's a

25:35pretty good space for a young surfer to

25:38to get the good oral ya got a good

25:41feeling about Jagger for many doesn't

25:43make it on the CT i'm seriously thinking

25:45it's gonna be an amazing big wave rider

25:47I think he's you know we were up there

25:49nor strategy was in the last year and it

25:51was big here and I went out the back and

25:53jagged cha ya got

25:55he's got courage because your carriage

25:56it comes from here like that you got

25:59anyone my stories for us you know I'm

26:02not yourself while I really big and yeah

26:04oh yeah well I mean that was not the

26:07ideal no check yourself 1i yet nobody he

26:11did erin go and surf eat we got when I

26:15department set right in the indesign

26:17that was pretty you know I went well

26:19that's where he wanted to but he wasn't

26:20on the shoulder now it wasn't the gums

26:22is right in there with her you know I

26:24thought that was a good i could so I

26:26that he was you know there was a some

26:29big guys you know and he was just

26:30prepared to you know want to be in there

26:33amongst it and just eat any certain kind

26:36of smart you know yeah so it was you

26:39know what it's like me out so I get such

26:41a focused state you know and and i only

26:43want to surf and hey you know what

26:44that's that's what i want to just trying

26:47to pry here at what a story that I think

26:49you told me once and it was when our

26:51friend here means read that kind of that

26:53one mayor in there and the and the

26:56kind of scaffolding all away any we're

26:58all watching an innocent not necessarily

27:00for thanksgiving i know it's early for

27:02ya and it was in those a couple of God

27:04Jackman was he really a few guys ready

27:06early and this set came through is just

27:08ripping the horizon he completely close

27:10to buy it back in those days they is

27:13such a macho singing that they call it

27:15like 10 foot until it was 30 and then I

27:18just and then i just called 20 feet no

27:20matter what and it was everyone's that's

27:21it well yeah I realized that they

27:23wouldn't hear called 4444 and in the

27:26birdie bike and a lot of guys reckon

27:27that the bag was deeper back there yeah

27:29there's nothing like because right now

27:30that they they don't take the river

27:33believe in myself that River in exactly

27:35one mile Bayon puts on the sand and your

27:38classes that when it's so not so me and

27:41this was a real budget in a close they

27:43are and ward through and it roared up

27:47the beach and just keep going and took

27:49the whole contest with it but and this

27:51in the end and remember all the flags

27:52and everything we're hanging in trees

27:53and in a in the head of meeting and

27:56that's what is the day I called a bit

27:58afraid because they had a meeting and

27:59only you know video I can claw turkey on

28:02in El Chapo minh they put invite to the

28:05same hoping everything will go and

28:08they'll get the numbers you need for

28:09your hand up and they are well not

28:11everybody to like this gun please don't

28:13know and he just when it's on it's on

28:16ensign every built it and said everybody

28:18in which is all on and while my goodness

28:21you know it was just a an amazing

28:23like honestly it was just it was massive

28:26and held its size the hold is it did

28:29more sets like that

28:30no no it was for those biggest one but

28:33you know when he'll decide at that what

28:35they call 25-foot of one but it was

28:37bigger officially know some got a lot of

28:40the most legendary surface in the

28:42history of surfing took that the

28:44worldwide better they lost that day well

28:46it was unbelievable member and even

28:48upset about that during the final and

28:49the side

28:50yeah and at the interval you know we

28:52pedaling and we got served it till you

28:55didn't like our wedding is that it now

28:57it backed off to it gets in the

28:59afternoon it's time yeah and you're

29:01gonna get acclimatized you know it was

29:0425 foot anyways to me it was just such a

29:06good breaking that like like elbow and

29:09always go to Hawaii ya nai attitude was

29:12we get there and you know you've come

29:13from here and is being like know why

29:15it's been lettin an alternate remember

29:17exactly where any attitude was like

29:19pulling the most radical died and just

29:22go away out there and get smashed and

29:24then you and then you're right yeah you

29:25know what you got and we've got a warm

29:28and get smashed into a diet while I was

29:31gonna go right big sunset and I was a

29:34trying to go the theory of relativity

29:35always liked it i think you know I'm i

29:38survived that died and i'm pretty right

29:41near that was kind of the best way to

29:43breaking but I mean having said that I

29:45mean I mean in the early days and I it's

29:48true died in that there is no fitness

29:50like North Shore fitness you know I

29:52think yeah once you've been there about

29:54a month you're ready to really really

29:56ready to serve yeah but i find it now

29:58it's so incredible new like I know she's

30:00been mixing and joe parr go beyond today

30:02will told they were able to prepare from

30:04here we you would never able to do that

30:07even in air died you had to be there yet

30:10we on the North Shore charging surfing

30:12in that river sunset doing that now the

30:15training is so amazing

30:16yeah they actually can do it from here

30:18and just go with before and they're

30:20ready to go I thought you know you and I

30:22mean you gotta hand it to make it knows

30:25you know they are amazing athletes they

30:27are and we're so proud of ya not wait

30:29here I'll test boy is your beings

30:32alkynes yet how lot and we all

30:34Satan and I just want to say thank you

30:38so much memory of my coming on the

30:39outcast rabbit love ya love you mind

30:42your body that stuff might yeah you

30:43gotta really good idea where you know

30:45like i know i'm staying because I may

30:47not i look at guys and go all the guys

30:50you know that guy like that's what I

30:51wanna be doing that you know and then

30:53you know so all the way I look at you

30:55and that's cool man we're looking at 61

30:57you're not even looking like freely and

30:59getting there now it's okay it's getting

31:02late for the next well alright we're

31:04going to get ready for this next season

31:06it's gonna be a couple months but Henry

31:09oh thanks for having me